Crowntail Betta is one of the most popular tropical fish in the US for one reason, it’s coloring, their beautiful caudal fins.

Crowntail Betta: Ultimate Guide. Covering Care of, Lifespan, Facts, Food, and Compatibility with other fish.

As one of the most popular Betta fish, the Crowntail is often referred to simply as a Betta, although the scientific or common name for this fish is the Siamese Fighting Fish or Fighting Fish.

Crown Tail Bettas are one of several varieties of betta fish, known for their spectacular caudal fins, which can grow to 3 times the size of the fish’s body.

Working with tropical fish can be both beautiful and rewarding. If you have never owned them before, you are in for a treat. Choose a species to begin your aquarium, over time you will want to add new species to your colorful underwater world.

Starting with just one species lets you get used to taking care of tropical fish. The more you learn you’ll be able to tell which species live well together and which will behave badly.

The Siamese Fighting Fish are renowned for their beautiful, and often colorful, ray-finned caudal fin and their aggressiveness nature; which can make keeping them as a beginner very challenging. As a beginner you would not be the first to put two of these male Siamese Fighting fish in a tank, only to come home and find one left.

The design of their caudal fin distinguishes them from the other variations of Siamese Fighting Fish.

A Little History About The Crown Tail Betta

Betta Fish are a long-long time favorite and are probably the most popular pet fish.

Today’s Crown Tail Bettas look quite different from their ancestors because they have been carefully bred to enhance fin characteristics and scale and fin colors.

During the mid-1800s, Siamese Fighting Fish became popular in the Thailand region of Asia. There were organized fights similar to “cockfights” run by the locals because of their aggressive nature. The tournaments became so popular that the king of Siam, now Thailand, made it into a sport that was then taxed and regulated.

The Crowntail Betta is also known as Plakat in Thailand. The word Plakat is from the Thai language and it means biting fish.

What do Crowntail Bettas Look Like?

The Crown Tail Betta has a striking, elaborate tail that differentiates it from other Bettas. The Crown Tail has a teardrop shape to its tail while the Twin-Tail is split, almost giving the appearance of having two tails.

The Siamese Fighting fish has been bred over the years to enhance the fins and the remarkable variety of colors of the males, as well as making them increasingly combative. Like all male betta fish, Crown Tails are known for being very aggressive toward other male Siamese Fighting fish and other brightly colored species of fish that have long flowing fins. Therefore, only one male should be kept in a tank; however, smaller, shorter-finned females may be housed together with caution.

The Crowntail Bettas have their fin rays extended well past their bodies. As a result, their tail is described as a crown. The design of their caudal fin distinguishes them from the other variants of Siamese Fighting Fish. Based on the size and shape of the fin these fish can be classified into more than a dozen different categories, of which one is the Crowntail Betta.

Females can be as colorful as the males, although, they rarely have the long finnage that is seen with the Crown Tail males.

Crowntail Betta comes in a wide range of colors, sometimes presenting many different colors in one small body. The most common colors for these fish are dark shades of red and blue. In captivity, breeding has resulted in bringing out many colors including green, pink, brown, purple, turquoise, pastel, orange, and many others. They are seen both in solid colors and in patterned colors.

In the wild, they display bright colors only when they are agitated. But in captivity, as mentioned earlier, they can be selectively bred to have an array of the aforementioned colors.

The males are more vibrantly colored than the females and feature long flowing fins. The females are usually not as brightly colored and are much shorter in comparison.

The Crowntail got its name due to its unique tail fin design. The webbing between the rays is significantly reduced, making the spikes appear more prominent and giving the tail fin a crown-like appearance.

As is the case with many aquarium fish, Betta Fish are hybrids, whose ancestors include Betta Splendens, but also include Betta Imbellis, and other Betta species.

Do not worry about Bettas being hybrids, they are a wonderful pet fish.

You will find that there are many different variations of color, pattern, and fin shape. Based on the shape and size of their fins, the Siamese Fighting Fish can be classified into more than a dozen categories, one of which is the Crowntail Betta.

Crowntail Bettas generally grow to just under 2 1/2 inches in length.

So while these fish generally grow to 2.4”-3.1” in size and have a torpedo-shaped body. It is a fact that their caudal fins can grow up to a size of 8” in diameter, which is about three times the size of their body, that contributes to their magnificent appearance.

 

How Long Do Crowntail Battas Live?

Crowntail Bettas who receive proper care typically reach 2 to 5 years of age.

Life Span: Betta Fish can live for a few years with good water and good food.

Generally, the Betta fish that are seen in pet shops are six months old.

Does Crowntail Battas Get Along With Other Fish?

The males are extremely territorial by nature and often engage in fights when putting together in the same vicinity.

When you introduce new companions in your tank for your Betta, keep them in a separate transparent enclosure for at least a couple of hours before releasing them. This could be a plastic bag or plastic container that is not so big it causes the water to overflow the tank. Look for any threatening reactions from your Betta such as the expansion of gills or violent movements. If you encounter these signs, then it means that your Betta does not like its new companions.

What Does The Crowntail Batta Eat?

In the wild Bettas eat larvae and insects. They are meat-eaters, carnivores, by nature, and require a high amount of protein in their diet to survive.

Bettas have small stomachs, and overfeeding them can shorten their life. Ideally, they should be fed two to three times a day to keep them healthy.

Good Food Choices

Ideal food choices for a Crowntail Betta should include the following:

• Dried Bloodworms
• Daphnia
• Glassworms
• Tubifex
• White Worms
• Plankton
• Insect Larva
• Wingless Fruit Flies
• Brine Shrimp
• Beef Heart

If they are fed flake food, make sure that they are getting an adequate amount of frozen and even live food also from time to time.

Your Bettas diet should be made up of primary pellets specifically made for feeding betta. For special occasions, feed frozen brine shrimp or blood worms.

• Check the ingredients of the pellets. The first three should be protein-based. Experts say that the protein in the pellets should be no less than 40%.
• Though the live food may be more exciting to watch, frozen and dried products are generally best. They are safer and free from potential parasites.
• Frozen or dried blood worms make for a great treat.

Quantity

Feed Your Betta Regularly

Betta fish vary in eating habits from one to another, so experiment to see how much food your fish eats. Set up a routine for feeding, for example, once in the morning and once at night. If you stick to a routine, you may even find that your Betta will be waiting for you when it is feeding time.

Take care not to overfeed your fish. Overfeeding can be a problem in some fish as they will eat as long as you feed them, which can be fatal. On the other hand, some Betta fish will stop eating when they are full. Overfeeding can cause bloating, which is not as serious as a similar condition called Dropsy. It may cause bladder problems later on, which can be fatal.

Make sure you clean up any extra food that your fish does not eat. Also, watch your fish see if they spit up any food. This could be a sign that your betta is a picky eater or it could mean the pellets are too big for your Betta to swallow. Surprisingly, many large fish food companies do not realize that betta fish have smaller mouths than many goldfish or other fish.

You can cut the pellet in half with a razor blade or pill cutter to allow it to fit in the fish’s mouth easier. If it still does not want to eat try another brand of pellets or dried food.

Turn Feeding Time Into Game Time

Place a straw in the tank and see if your fish gets used to it. If they do and you have leftover food your fish will not eat, place one of the leftover pellets in the tank, place the straw over it so that it is inside the straw. Next, hold the straw over the fish and wait for them to find it. After your betta finds it they will follow it. You can then slowly lift the straw up to the top of the tank until the food falls out and your betta will eat it.

What Type Of Care Do The Crowntail Betta Require?

A striking feature of this fish is that they have a labyrinth organ that enables them to intake oxygen from the outside air and also getting it just from the water. This not only helps them in surviving in low-oxygen water but also outside of water for a short amount of time. They also have an upturned mouth that helps them eat from the surface of the water.

Tank Size

The Betta needs a tank size of at least 5-gallon per fish. If you plan on having more than one fish you will need a larger Gallon Tank.

Many Fish Keepers think Bettas like or live best in small tanks because this what they are often displayed in to show off their colors, but they do best in larger tanks where they have plenty of room to swim.

Filter

Betta fish prefer filtered tanks because they do best in stable water parameters including water temperature around 74 degrees.

A filter helps to maintain healthy bacteria while cleaning and neutralizing ammonia and nitrates in the tank.

Keep the airflow gentle, since a strong current can damage your Crowntail Betta Fish’s delicate fins.

Filtered Betta tanks also require less maintenance, making your life much easier.

LED Lighting

Betta’s are beautiful fish, so you’ll want to be able to see and show your Betta off!

Bright LED lighting is your best option. They’re energy-efficient and help to showcase your Betta’s spectacular colors.

Betta’s need a regular pattern of day and night. Choosing a tank with day and moonlighting is a great way to ensure your fish stays healthy, and you’re able to view 24/7.

 

 

 

What To Put In Tank

Never put a heater on a tank under 5 gallons. It can be dangerous to your Betta’s health, due to the water temperature warming and cooling too fast.

Rocks

Rocks are a great way to use the betta fish’s instincts to explore and find hideouts.

A natural-looking ceramic log can sit at the bottom of the tank and give your betta fish some shelter plus create a natural environment for your fish. Once he finds this perfect hideout he will be in and out playing and hiding.

You can also add a fine sand or gravel substrate to the bottom of the tank to make the tank a more natural habitat.

Flora

Plants may seem boring to us, but to a Betta, they can be like a jungle gym.

Plants in your betta fish tank are a really good idea since they are present in their natural habitat. They can provide hiding spaces, and help to produce oxygen if you use live plants.

If you choose to use fake plants, be sure they don’t have sharp edges that could cut your fins.

Silk plants also make a nice choice.

Ping Pong Ball

A simple ping pong ball that floats on the water’s surface is a great toy for the inquisitive betta.

Using the betta fish’s natural hunting behaviors the ping pong ball will float on the surface just like food would in the wild – watch your betta hunt this very cheap and available toy!

Housing And Tank Cleaning

It is important to have a proper set up ready, before bringing home your new betta fish pet.

Aquarium

Choose a suitable home. In the wild, bettas are suited to living in relatively shallow but spacious environments. To meet the spacious need, consider giving your betta a decently sized aquarium tank to help prolong its life. Pick a tank of 5 gallons or more for your betta to live in. It may seem like a lot, but it is what your betta fish pet deserves.

Prepare the water

Use a water conditioner such as Prime before putting fresh tap water in the tank. The chlorine and chloramines in standard tap water can harm bettas, as well as kill off all that beneficial bacteria housed in the filter. Older sources may suggest aging the water (standing it for a time) but it is best to use a water conditioner, as aged water removes chlorine but not chloramine and heavy metals.

• It is not a good idea to use bottled water because this deprives your betta of necessary minerals and is not fish ‘safe’. Treated tap water is both a cheaper and better alternative.

Filling the Betta’s tank

If the tank is without a top cover, fill it about 80% high to ensure your fish will not leap out. Bettas are very active and can jump over 3 inches/7.5cm when motivated! However, Bettas usually won’t be trying to escape if they are happy in their home.

Add your Betta to the tank

Slowly and carefully, tip the container in which you received your betta into the new habitat, allowing the new water and old water to mix. This will make the water easier for your fish to adjust to. If the habitat water is much colder or warmer than the previous water, mixing waters will help allay any shock for the fish. Be gentle as you tip in the betta!

• Avoid netting a Betta when possible, as this can damage the delicate fins. If you need to pick up a Betta, try to use a small cup to scoop him/her up with care.

Keeping the Betta tank clean

Betta fish are only hardy to different water types, such as hard and soft water. This means that you should not change the water or rearrange the aquarium too frequently.

Clean your Betta’s tank

Place your Betta in a container filled with old water while washing the tank. Simply wash the tank with hot water, as some soaps will harm your betta. If your habitat has rocks, rinse them thoroughly. Fill the habitat halfway with fresh tap water, return the betta and some of the old water, and then fill the rest with tap water again.

• Be sure to add a de-chlorinator (also known as a water conditioner) to the water; this will remove any harmful chlorine/chloramine that is in tap water that may kill your fish. It will also filter bacteria.
• Be sure that the water you are changing is the same temperature as the old water the betta was in, to avoid temperature shock; such shock can be deadly to your betta. Use an in-tank thermometer to check the water temperatures.

Test the water weekly

To test water parameters each week, you will need a master freshwater test kit. This will allow you to monitor your aquarium and take readings. Follow the instructions for testing provided by the manufacturer.

• Place notes in your calendar or diary to remind yourself that it’s time to test the water.

Breeding of Crowntail Betta

Crowntail Bettas have a short lifespan. They are most successful at breeding when they are just under a year old.

Crowntail betta fishes are a popular variation of the Betta splendens, they are easy to breed in captivity.

They breed in bubble nests and the males are extremely protective about their bubble nest. The males are also pretty violent during courtship. So, make sure that the females are not kept alongside them aside from the breeding period.

The male creates a bubble nest at the water surface by blowing air to the water. Just before spawning, both the male and female display bright coloration and start circling each other under the bubble nest. This is followed by the male wrapping himself around the female, which leads to the female expelling the eggs, which gets immediately fertilized. When the eggs start sinking to the bottom of the tank, the males begin scooping them up and spitting them into the nest.

After this, the next mission for the male is to tend the brood. This is the point where you should remove the female from the tank as the male becomes over-protective of his babies, and can harm the female if it feels vulnerable. Such is his dedication towards parenting is that each time an egg falls out of the nest; the male spit it back into the nest.

After one-two days, the eggs start hatching. The babies feed off the yolk sack for the next three days. Even during this period, the male parent picks up any fry that falls out of the hatchet and put it back to the nest. However, despite being protective, it is recommended that at this point, you should remove the male parent from the tank because it sometimes eats its baby once they start swimming, probably confusing them with some food.

The babies should be fed in small yet regular quantities daily for it to grow healthy.

Crowntail Betta Diseases

A common cause of death among Crowntail Betta in aquariums is overfeeding. It results in constipation, which can lead to an incorrect nitrogen cycle, which in turn, is one of the main reasons for death in Bettas. Two of the major signs of constipation in Bettas are swollen body and popping of eyes out of their heads.

Water chemistry

Before treating your fish for any disease, check the water chemistry. Toxic levels of Ammonia, Nitrites, and Nitrates are extremely harmful and weaken your Betta’s immune system resulting in illness. Many pet stores will test your water for free. Liquid tests are much more accurate than strip tests.

• If your fish look sick, are gasping for breath, not eating or swimming with their head down do a water change immediately. Changing the water is the most effective way to save your fish if the should have nitrate, nitrite, or ammonia poisoning. Adding chemicals may improve the toxicity of the water, a water change is much quicker and effective.
• Did you add the water conditioner at the last water change? If not, quickly add a water conditioner.
• Have you added rocks or gravel recently? Added any flora? These additions can change the water chemistry if not prepared correctly.
• Many of these causes of illness can be corrected by a simple water change, so it should be the first course of action.

Conservative Treatment Versus Medication

There are two methods to treat sick fish. One is the conservative method. It involves increased water changes and often salt treatments. The other method is using medication. Generally, you should attempt a conservative treatment before using medicines as medicines can be hard on your fish’s internal organs. Overusing medicine or not finishing the treatment cycle can result in medicine-resistance bugs.

Therapeutic Additives

Stress can be a major issue with your Betta but there are some things you can do to ease this stress. You can add Indian Almond leaves, tannins, black water extracts, and peat moss pellets to your tank to help prevent stress-related illness or help recovery. API Stress Coat and Kordon’s Fish Protector are water conditioners/additives that help slime coat production and skin repair. They can be added whenever there are signs of illness.

True Fungal Infections

Symptoms: White cottony like patches on your fish’s body or head, lethargic actions, not eating, clamped fins, or pale colors.

Treatment:

Conservative:

• Lower temperature below 76* F and treat with Aquarium Salt at 1 tsp/gal.
• Increase water changes to 100% daily.
• Replace Aquarium Salt following water changes.
• Never continue salt treatments for more than 10 days.

Medication:

• If Conservative treatment is not working after 10 days or the fungus is spreading rapidly during the conservative treatment, change to medication method.
• Add “Fungus Eliminator” by Jungle, API Erythromycin, API Fungus Cure, API Triple Sulfa, OR Mardel’s Maracyn II.
• Change water daily and add a new dose of the medication.
• Continue until all fungus is gone.

Tail Rot or Fin Rot

Fin Rot is one of the most common diseases in aquarium fish, but it can also be easily prevented. If left untreated, Fin Rot will eventually kill the diseased fish and can infect the other fish in the tank as well.

Symptoms:

• Fins or tail appear to have frayed edges
• Fin edges turn black/brown
• Inflammation at the base of the fin
• The entire fin may rot away or fall off in large chunks
• Fins have white dots
• These symptoms are often accompanied by a loss of appetite, less activity, and your fish sitting at the bottom of the tank.

Treatment:

Conservative:

• Change the water and check the filter
• If there is food debris, vacuum the gravel
• Be sure there is no Chlorine, Ammonia, or Nitrite in the water and the Nitrate is under 40 ppm
• Treat with Aquarium Salt at 1 tsp/gal
• Check the pH and correct it if necessary
• Water temperature should be changed to 24–26 °C or 75-79 °F

Medication: If Conservative treatment is ineffective

Use suitable treatment such as Phenoxyethanol, Malachite Green Methylene blue, or another proprietary agent

Use antibiotics if the rotting is jagged

Use anti-fungal medication if the rot is more evenly spread out and the fin has holes. This may also be a symptom of an external Columnaris infection, especially if it progresses rapidly (within 24 hours) and the rotted edge has a white, fuzzy appearance.

Add Stress Coat to help regrowth

Continue until fins/tail stop receding and start showing some new growth.

Advanced Fin and Tail Rot

Symptoms:

• The fins and/or tail start to show discoloration, primarily on the edges. Depending on the color of the fish, the discoloration may appear as white, red, or even black
• The fin edges appear frayed or uneven as infected pieces start to die and fall off
• The whole fin and/or tail may be rotted away, the infection begins to attack the body, potentially leading to the death of the fish
• Your fish may seem listless and does not feel like eating since its body is working to fight the infection

Treatment:

• Siphon and vacuum the gravel at the bottom of the aquarium to remove any waste and debris
• Change 25% of the water in the fish tank
• Check and monitor your water conditions. Check pH, temperature, chlorine, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. You can test for these with a home water testing kit or head into your nearest fish store
• Move the affected fish to a quarantine tank if not all fish show signs of fin rot with a separate net. This is important to prevent the fin rot from spreading to other fish. It is also a good idea to move the fish if it is being bullied by tank mates to prevent further nipping.
• Treat the affected fish tank with Blue Planet’s Tri-Sulfa Tablets, API Stress Coat, Melafix or a vet prescribed antibiotic following the product label’s instructions.
• Remove the active carbon from the filter during treatment.
• Monitor your fish every day to check if the fin rot has stopped. If caught early, fin rot can be treated
• Fins and tail will slowly grow back after a few weeks.
• It may take up to 4 weeks to work, so don’t give up.

Fin Biting

Symptoms:

The only symptom that you will notice in tail biting is your betta’s tail getting more torn up.

• Rapid Tail Loss. When your betta is biting his tail, you may notice most of his tail disappearing overnight.
• Chunks Missing. There will be chunks of tail missing instead of a more uniform deterioration. There will be quite a few chunks missing from your Bettas tail.
• The missing chunks will be in places where your Betta can reach. If the missing chunks are in places your betta can not get too, then it could be something else.
• The Edges Will Look A Lot Cleaner. When biting his tail the edges are going to look clean. If you see clean looking deterioration then it could be tail biting.
• You See Him Doing It. If you see your Betta biting his fins and ripping parts off you need to begin trying to stop and treat his tail biting ASAP.

How To Prevent Betta Tail Biting

Prevention is the best cure for tail biting. The moment you know your Betta is tail biting is the time to take action

• Add Indian Almond Leaves. Indian almond leaves reduce stress in fish and your Betta will love them. And they do two things that will help reduce stress which could be causing tail biting.
• They release antioxidants into the water which are a natural stress reliever. And they also turn the water into blackwater. Blackwater resembles the environment your betta would live in, which will help to relieve his stress.
• Decrease the lighting. By decreasing the lighting he is going to feel like he has more places to hide. That is why it is recommended to leave the tank lights off when you first introduce a fish to a tank.
• If you still want to look at your betta then you could try turning the light to a dark blue if it’s possible.
• Add A Tank Mate. Only do this if it is not aggression. There are a lot of great tank mates you can add if your fish has a peaceful temperament.
• Show him his reflection. If pent up aggression is causing your betta to tail bite this will allow him to flare and work himself up releasing some of the aggression. Don does not do this for prolonged lengths of time, it for 20 seconds then give him a good amount of time in between, if you do it for too long it can cause him stress.
• Add API Stress Coat. Not only is it a water conditioner that contains Aloe Vera which will reduce your Bettas stress. Add 5 ml per 10 gallons to help relieve stress.

Treatment:

• Frequent water changes to reduce the chance of bacteria infecting him. You should be performing a water change at least once a week and even more if your betta is in a small tank.
• Add Aquarium Salt is going to do two things. Kill unhealthy bacteria in your tank and help relieve your bettas stress. Add Aquarium Salt at the rate of 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons of water. Make sure you are diluting the salt beforehand in a small container of aquarium water.
• Keep adding Aquarium Salt every day for 4 days before performing a water change. But don’t add it for any more than 8 days at a time without giving a break
• Using Stress Coat as the water conditioner will help fin regrowth.

Ick

Ick or ich is an external parasite it is also referred to as white spot disease.

Symptoms:

• White spots on the body, and sometimes on the body, fins, and eyes
• If the spots are small they may look more like white dust
• If it is gold or yellow, then your betta has Velvet
• Loss of appetite and lethargy a sign something is wrong
• Rubbing on things in the tank trying to rub it off.
• Bettas are solitary fish, but you may also notice your Betta being a lot more reclusive
• Clamping of fins. This is a very common sign in sick fish caused by excessive stress.
• Another symptom of ich/ick will be distressed breathing. Ich often affects the gills, if left untreated it will cause respiratory failure and eventually death.

Treatment:

Betta ich treatment is carried out in a quarantine tank rather than your main tank.

Method 1: Removing Your Betta From Your Show Tank

• Ich can only survive if it has a host to live off.
• To remove ich from your tank take away it’s host
• Keep your tank fish free for a week and all traces of ich will die.
• This is the best method to use if your betta is isolated and you have a quarantine tank you can use.

Method 2: Salt & Heat Treatment

• Raise the temperature and Aquarium Salt to the aquarium.
• You can not fight Ick it when it is on your Betta, you can only treat it when it is in the water.

Follow these steps:

• Progressively begin raising the temperature in your tank.
• raise it 1°F every day some people will raise it by 2°F.
• Keep raising the temperature of your aquarium until it reaches 86°F
• At 86°F the life cycle of ich is going to increase. If the parasite doesn’t find a host it is not going to survive.
• While raising the temperature of your tank you should begin adding salt.
• High salinity causes your aquarium to become unlivable to ich.
• The aquarium salt is also going to improve your Bettas slime coat (It’s a natural defense against parasites like ich)
• Dissolve 1 teaspoon of Aquarium Salt into a small amount of aquarium water, before adding the water back into your tank.
• You should dissolve 1 teaspoon per gallon if manufacture instructions different follow them
• Perform 25% water changes every couple of days. Replacing any salt lost.
• After 10 days perform water changes as normal, stop adding salt until your tank is salt-free again.
• If only your Betta has gotten sick then use a quarantine tank instead of your main tank. If more than one fish has ich then perform this method in your aquarium.

Method 3: Medicating Your Betta

• Use medication that has either Methylene blue or Malachite green in it.
• The medicine I use is Rid Ich Plus. It is specifically for treating ich in aquariums so it won’t be as potent as pure Malachite green. If using this then follow the instructions on the bottle.
• Make sure you use a quarantine tank instead of dosing your main tank

Velvet

Symptoms:

• Shine a flashlight on Betta if it looks like it is covered in fine gold or rust-colored dust
• Velvety film on the skin
• Clamped Fins against the body
• No appetite
• Darting/rubbing to dislodge the parasites
• Loss of appetite
• Lethargy

Treatment:

It is very contagious so you should treat the entire tank.

Early on there are three steps you are going to need to do to treat Velvet in your Betta.

Heat, salt, and darkness.

When starved of light and in an environment saltier and hotter than it’s used to, the parasite will die. The disease can only survive without a host for a couple of days before dying as well.

Follow these steps:

• The first step is to raise the water temperature. The parasite will die in hotter temperatures, increase the temperature to between 82-85°F. Do not raise the temperature too quickly, or you may kill your Betta through shock. Instead, raise the temperature by 1°F every 24 hours.
• At the same time, Dim your tank lighting while you are treating your Betta. The parasite that causes Velvet also has Chlorophyll in its cells, so it can use Photosynthesis.
• Add aquarium salt to your tank. Once again add salt slowly. Take some water out of your tank and dissolve the salt in it, before adding it back in. You should add 1 teaspoon of salt for every gallon of water in your fish tank. You should add the salt over 3 hours so you don’t shock your fish.

Severe Cases

In more severe cases of Velvet, or times when treatment isn’t working, you’ll need to use stronger medication. The main two are copper and Malachite green.

Use a quarantine tank.

Copper For Velvet

Follow the instructions that come with the medicine. However, there are a few things you should remember.

• You can choose between using copper sulfate or chelated copper.
• Copper sulfate is more effective, but it can be difficult to keep the right level of copper sulfate in the tank as it dissipates quickly.
• Chelated copper is a lot more stable, but people think it is not as effective.
• You should not use copper if your aquarium’s pH is too low
• Only use copper on fish and no other living things in your tank, including plants. That’s why it’s so important to move your betta to a quarantine tank. Copper is especially deadly against invertebrates.

Malachite Green For Velvet

Along with copper, consider using Malachite green if so follow manufacturer of Malachite Green recommendations. Malachite Green will also stain things in your tank, so use it in a quarantine tank.

Even if Velvet seems to be clearing up, be sure you treat your fish for the recommended number of days. Oödinium could still be living in the water or inside your fish.

Oödinium will only last 2 days in water without finding a new host. If it does find a new host it will live for 2 weeks. So to eradicate all traces from your tank will take 3-4 weeks on average.

Popeye

Popeye is not difficult to cure, but it can sometimes be an indication that your Betta has serious internal condition

Symptoms:

• Bulging eye
• Swollen eye
• A thick white ring around the eye
• Loss of appetite
• Lethargy

Treatment:

As soon as you notice that your Betta has Popeye, it should be isolated from any other tank mates. If it is the only inhabitant, the Betta can remain in its current tank.

Conservative:

• If the swelling is extreme
• Use Epsom Salts first
• Do a 100% water change
• Get your Betta into clean, healthy water
• Change the aquarium water 100% every 3 days
• Perform 100% daily water changes. You may be able to treat the Popeye with just Epsom Salt and clean water.
• If the swelling goes down but the eyes remain cloudy/white, then switch to Aquarium Salt at 1 tsp/gal or use medications.

Do not combine Aquarium Salt with medications but you can continue to use Epsom Salts during medical treatments.

Medication:

If Epsom Salts or Aquarium Salt do not do the trick or it is a serious case of Popeye:

Add any Ampicillin antibiotic to the aquarium. Ampicillin usually comes in capsules and typically one capsule should be used per 10 gallons, follow container instructions

• If your Betta is in an aquarium less than the specified capsule per water ratio, simple break the capsule open and sprinkle a calculated percentage of the powder into the aquarium
• Make sure the powder properly dissolves into the water, stir with a plastic spoon if needed
• Be sure to add the powder again when doing a 100% water change
• Do not over medicate.
• Discontinue the treatment if no improvement is evident after a week

Dropsy

The process of fluid building up inside a Betta leading to swelling of the kidneys and organ failure.

Symptoms:

• Grossly swollen belly
• Raised scales giving the flesh a pine cone appearance
• Eyes that bulge
• Gills that are pale
• The anus that becomes red and swollen
• Feces that are pale and stringy
• Ulcers on the body, along the lateral line
• A spine that is curved
• Fins clamped together
• Redness of the skin or fins
• General lethargy
• Refusal to eat
• Swimming near the surface

Treatment:

Dropsy is usually fatal in advanced stages of extreme bloating. Identifying it early will increase your chances of successful treatment.

Early Detection:

If you spot the early signs of Dropsy then treat him/her with

• Epson Salts at 1-2 tsp/gal
• Jungle’s Anti-Parasite pellets
• 100% daily water changes
• Increase the temperature to 84*F

If the betta has begun Pineconning do method described below:

• Perform a 25% water change
• Prepare a quarantine or hospital tank. Can be treated in the main tank if you don’t have live plants or tank mates.
• Add a heater with a built-in thermostat, keep it at around 78 degrees Fahrenheit
• Keep the water level lower than normal to make it easy for your Betta to surface for oxygen
• Add an air stone with an air pump to oxygenate the tank’s water to help with recovery
• Add aquarium salt to the quarantine tank at a rate of 0.5 teaspoons per gallon to help reduce swelling and release built-up fluids.
• Always acclimate your Betta fish to the quarantine tank.
• Administer the antibiotic according to package directions. If your betta fish is still eating you can soak the food in the antibiotic for faster efficacy. Otherwise, medicine like Kanamycin is absorbed by Betta fish in the water too.
• Many antibiotics deplete dissolved oxygen levels and are potent which is why daily 25% water changes and an air bubbler are crucial during treatment

If caught early Dropsy is curable.

Swim Bladder Disease

Symptoms:

Swim Bladder Disorder or SBD is a common symptom for most betta illnesses, major or minor. It is likely that a keeper will encounter it at some time, so it’s useful to be aware of its symptoms as soon as you own a betta. If your betta does have Swim Bladder Disorder, it may appear lethargic or look like it has difficulty swimming.

Treatment:

This is not a contagious or fatal illness. If it is not congenital (aka a condition the fish has had since birth), then it is caused by overfeeding or feeding the wrong foods.

SBD is usually due to overeating if so, chances of making a recovery are good

If you have other fish in your tank then move your betta to a quarantine tank.

• Now that your betta is in the tank you should fast him for 3 days. This may seem like a long time to you, but in the wild Bettas often go days without food.
• Slowly start raising the temperature in the tank up to 80°F. The increased heat is going to speed up the rate in which your Betta digests food.
• After 3 days you should check to see if your Betta is improving. Sometimes this will cure Swim Bladder Disease.
• If your Betta still has the symptoms of Swim Bladder after 3 days begin feeding him cooked peas, feed the fish a cooked and skinned pea. With the peas make sure you don’t cook them long enough to be mushy otherwise they will fall apart before your Betta gets a chance to eat them.
• When feeding your Betta cooked peas take the peel off first. Cooked peas are going to act almost like a laxative to get your Bettas digestive system moving.
• If your Betta is having trouble swimming to the pea and eating it then hold it in place for him. This can happen in Bettas with Swim Bladder Disease, and the food can sink to the bottom too quickly, you can reduce the depth of the tank by removing water from it.
• Keep feeding your fish just peas for about a week. Don’t feed him more than 2 peas a day.
• If after a week you don’t see improvement, then your Betta may have something more serious than constipation.

Epsom Salt For Swim Bladder Disease
If you have some Epsom salt, it can often be an effective way of treating Swim Bladder Disease in your Betta if he is constipated. An Epsom salt bath will give you the best results and here’s how to do it:

• Mix 1 tablespoon of Epsom salt with half a gallon of conditioned tap water in a clean container.
• Once the Epsom Salt has dissolved add half a gallon of your aquarium water into the container.
• Replace the water taken from your aquarium with conditioned tap water which is the same temperature as your aquarium.
• Leave your Betta in the bath for 10-15 minutes. If this hasn’t cleared his constipation at that time, put him back in his tank.

Continue monitoring your Betta throughout the day to see if he’s excreted or he’s swimming better.
If you notice your fish stop moving in the Epsom salt bath, or if he’s just laying in one spot then add him back to your aquarium immediately.

You can help prevent a reoccurrence by switching to better pellet food, feeding less, and offering a more varied diet.

To make it easier for the betta to eat and breathe, you can make the water shallower. You can offer him/her frozen Daphnia which will help the fish pass stool.

External Parasites

Symptoms:

• Darting motions
• Scratching
• Lose interest in food
• Lethargy
• Color loss

Parasites are usually visible under magnification. The causes of external parasites are almost always introduced by new fish or other aquarium creatures.

You may or may not see parasites. Pay attention to the area around the gills and fins.

Treatment:

Some parasites can be treated conservatively with Aquarium Salt. For salt treatments, treat as you would with Ick.

If conservative treatment does not work there are a number of medications you could use like tetracycline, kanamycin, malachite green, and ampicillin.

There are also some betta-specific medications like API’s General Cure and Jungle’s Parasite Clear fizz tablets which are both effective ways to kill parasites.

Internal Parasites

Symptoms:

• Losing weight but eating normally
• Acting lethargic
• Might dart
• Rub against decor.

Treatment:

It can be hard to fight and can get confused with the fatal disease Tuberculosis.

• Perform daily 100% water changes, for larger aquariums change 75%
• Carefully clean the gravel to remove eggs/larva.
• Aquarium Salt bath.
• Treat with 1-2tsp/gal Epsom Salt combined with either Jungle’s Anti-Parasite Pellets, Jungle’s Parasite Clear Fizz tabs, or API General Cure.

Bacterial Infection/Open Red Sores

Symptoms:

• Betta has open red sores
• Red patches that are not ammonia burns
• Lethargy,
• No appetite
• clamped
• Sits at bottom or top of the tank
• Color loss.

Treatment:

• Daily 100% water changes and clean the gravel thoroughly at least 75% water change for larger tanks
• Treat the entire tank with Aquarium Salt at 1- 2tsp/gal, do not continue for more than 10 days
• If that fails, use API Tetracycline, API Erythromycin, API Triple Sulfa OR Mardel’s Maracyn I & II

Tuberculosis

Symptoms:

• lesions on body
• loss of scales
• extreme weight loss
• deformation of the skeleton
• eye damage
• weight loss
• lethargy
• deformities (scoliosis, bent spine)
• raised scales
• fin and tail rot

Fish Tuberculosis could have infected your betta for 6 months before you notice any symptoms

BEWARE HUMANS CAN CONTRACT TUBERCULOSIS FROM FISH, IT IS A POTENTIALLY DEADLY DISEASE.

Treatment:

Since your fish could have had Tuberculosis for 6 months or longer before it is noticed the damage done internally likely is unrepairable.

You might try treatment with medications such as Kanamycin, but there is little chance for success.

There are only two things you can do. Place him in a quarantine tank where he can live out the remainder of his life or euthanize him. To stop suffering the second option may be better.

Inflamed Gills

Inflamed Gill is a common disease resulting in swelling of the gills, which may partially or completely prevent them from closing. Prevents the fish from breathing properly and is fatal.

Symptoms:

• One or both gills swollen and red
• Gills will not close properly
• Betta may be gasping for air

Treatment:

• Quaranteen the affected fish
• daily 100% water changes
• Test water
• Treat with antibiotics for infections, or poisoning
• if caused by nitrate/nitrite/ammonia poisoning treat with 1tsp/gal Aquarium Salt
• Stress Coat while daily 100% water changes
• If caused by bacterial infection treat conservable with 1- 2tsp/gal Aquarium Salt for up to 10 days
• If that does not work then use API Tetracycline, API Erythromiacin, API Triple Sulfa, or Maracy

Water changes alone should be enough to clear the problem, though the addition of stress coat and/or aquarium salt may also help.

Septicemia (red streaks)

Septicemia is a rare bacterial infection that effects Bettas who are stressed or wounded.

It is often the result of poor water conditions with high amounts of decomposing organic debris. High levels of nitrate and poor Redox tend to be common when Septicemia is present.

Symptoms:

• bloody red streaks across the body and/or fins
• lethargic
• loss of appetite
• clamped fins
• gasping for air
• bulging eyes
• bloated abdomens
• ulcers, open sores

Treatment:

Septicemia is caused by an internal bacterial infection and is not contagious.

• Isolate sick fish.
• Perform daily 100% water changes.
• Treat with a antibiotics

During treatment, use 1 tsp/gal Aquarium Salt and Stress Coat to help prevent secondary infections.

Body Slime Infection

A fungal infection that grows and eats the skin, fins, and body of the fish. It appears as a white, cotton-like slime on the fish. An unclean aquarium is what usually causes the fish stress, leading to a fungal infection.

Fungal infections are very contagious, so sometimes if one fish has it, it is likely it will spread to the others.

Symptoms:

• grey/white to blue looking mucus coat
• rapid breathing
• rubbing itself against objects in the aquarium
• loss of color
• loss of appetite
• lethargy
• clamped fins
• often originates from previous infections
• usually has cotton-like growths
• white fuzz films
• slime (mucus)
• white lumps and bumps on the skin

Treatment:

• Check water conditions. Chemistry and water temperature
• Complete a 30% water change before treating the tank
• Use 1 tsp/gal Aquarium Salt for up to 10 days
• Remove any filter carbon before adding medications
• Separate the affected fish if possible or treat the entire tank
• Remove the damaged fish to a quarantine tank until healed
• Feed a high-quality food and a vitamin supplement such as Nourish
• Treat with an anti-bacterial agent such as Furan 2 or Melafix or Formalin
• Add StressGuard, AquaPlus, or StressCoat to improve the slime coating and aid healing.
• Treat for the recommended amount of time
• 50% water change to help clear the medicine

If the above advice has not worked, here is a list of fungal medications that we recommend trying. You should only try one at a time:

• Fungus Eliminator by Jungle
• Erythromycin by API
• Fungus Cure by API
• Triple Sulfa by API
• Maracyn Two by Mardel

The sickness can become fatal if it is not treated early enough.

Columnaris

Columnaris is a bacterial infection that can affect all fish in your tank. Columnaris can enter your Betta in several different ways such as the mouth, gills, and open sores.

The disease is highly contagious and the outcome is often fatal

Symptoms:

• white/gray spots on the mouth, edges of scales and fins
• cottony growth that eats away at the mouth
• fins rapidly disintegrate beginning at the edges
• as the disease progresses gray lesions may change in color to yellow/brown/red
• lesions often occur in front of the dorsal causing a “saddleback” appearance
• lethargic
• loss of appetite
• clamped fins
• gasping for air

Treatment:

There are 2 types of Columnaris: chronic and acute. Chronic Columnaris can take days to advance and acute can kill within a day.

• It is contagious so isolate sick fish
• If more than one fish shows symptoms then treat the entire tank
• daily 100% water change in small tanks or 75% water change in larger tanks
• clean the gravel
• Treat with Aquarium Salt add 1 tsp/gal Aquarium Salt 3 times, 12 hours apart so that you end up with 3 times the normal concentration.
• Do NOT raise water temperature.
• High water temperature, over 85*F, accelerates the progression of the disease
• Lowering the temperature does not seem to help fight it
• External infections should be treated with antibiotics, chemicals in the water or both
• Copper sulfate, Acriflavine, Furan, and Terramycin may all be used in the water to treat Columnaris.
• Terramycin has proven to be quite effective both as a bath, and when used to treat foods for internal infections.

Hole In The Head Disease

It is not known what causes Hole In The Head Disease(HITH), but many people believe hole in the head is caused by a bacteria called Hexamita. Hexamita is a type of parasite that lives in the intestines of Bettas and all fish.

The earlier HITH is noticed and treatment is started the better chance your Betta has of survival.

Symptoms:

• actual holes in the head
• White Stringy Feces
• Loss Of Color
• Lethargy
• Loss of appetite

Treatment:

• HITH can be treated conservatively with Aquarium salt
• move to a quarantine tank
• Add 1 tsp/gal Aquarium Salt 3 times, 12 hours apart so that you end up with 3 times the normal concentration
• not to continue this for more than 10 days
• Keep the temperature between 80-82*F and perform daily 100% water changes

If conservative treatment fails then use medication for treatment.

• Move to a quarantine tank
• Medicating a tank affects everything in the tank including any fish, plants or bacteria in the tank

If the fish is still eating the disease is probably in the earlier stages and the likelihood of survival is greater.

If you are medicating your Betta with the food you will need to consult a professional about dosages and medications.

If you are treating the water, again consult with a professional to get the medications and dosages correct.

Stress

It is important to be aware of stress in your fish. Stress often is caused by poor water conditions, a change in diet, infections, or sharing a tank with an aggressive companion.

Symptoms:

Observe your fish often and watch for any change in your fish’s routine behavior.

• hiding for long periods of time
• darting around the tank or dart away when you get close
• frantic swimming or crashing at the bottom of the tank
• gasping for air at the surface which can be a sign of low oxygen in the water
• scraping or rubbing against rock or gravel
• loss of appetite
• lack of energy
• staying in a corner or at the bottom of the tank
• improper tank size
• Poor nutrition or irregular feeding routine

Treatment:

• if housed with another fish isolate to see if he gets better
• some bettas become depressed when isolated
• too much or too little light,
• too much current,
• too much activity near the tank
• the temperature might be too low
• move the aquarium to a more isolated area and see if results are better
• change diet
• provide places to hide when he is stressed
• add water conditioner like API Stress Coat Aquarium Water Conditioner, which is formulated to reduce fish stress by removing dangerous toxins
• add API Stress Zyme Aquarium Water Conditioner, which keeps your aquarium cleaner and helps boost its natural cycle

Costia

Costia is a parasite that is single-celled and lives in cold water. It will multiply quickly in this environment and can cause considerable harm to any fish it comes into contact with. It is often introduced by infected fish when added to the tank but is fairly rare and relatively easy to cure.

In the early stage, the disorder is difficult to recognize, because the parasites involved are tiny organisms.

Symptoms:

• Costia has generally only one symptom, the skin of the infected fish becomes cloudy and milky
• fish may rub and scratch
• loss of appetite.

Treatment:

• Remove all fish from the tank
• Treat fish with Aquarium Salt baths: Use 2.5 tablespoon/gal for 10-15 minutes then place fish in clean water for 10 minutes then move it into the quarantine tank
• If fish becomes obviously stressed then remove it from the salt bath quickly
• Do this daily for 3 days. Use 2 tsp/gal in the quarantine tank to prevent secondary infection and perform daily 100% water changes
• Sterilizing the tank: Costia cannot survive at temps above 86F so increase the temp of the main tank to 88-90*F for 48 hours
• The parasites will die due to both the temperature and lack of host and it will be safe to reintroduce your fish as long as they have finished treatment

Red-sore Disease

This is really the later stages of Hemorrhagic Septicemia. This disease is “different” from Hemorrhagic Septicemia in that the fish will have ulcers.

Symptoms:

• lethargic
• lay on the bottom
• loss of appetite
• bloating
• scales may raise, dropsy, or shed
• red blotches that eventually turn into ulcers with white edges and a red center

Treatment:

Often fatal unless you begin treating immediately after you see the ulcer.

• medication is necessary
• anti-bacterial medication such as Kanamycin, Furazolidone or Nitrofurazone
• specialty stores often sell pre-medicated flakes or are available on Aquabid
• Use 2 tsp/gal Aquarium Salt in the water to prevent secondary infection
• perform daily 100% water changes
• usually caused by poor water conditions, keep your tanks clean

Difficulties in Petting Crowntail Betta

As beautiful as they are, it cannot be denied that Crowntail Bettas are one of the fiercest freshwater fish. So, if you are looking for a peaceful fish for your aquarium, then Crowntail Betta is not for you. Also, if you are one of those who prefer to keep the same variant of a particular fish together in your tank, this might not be the ideal choice, unless you keep a bunch of female Bettas together. And, as mentioned earlier, female Bettas are not as brightly colored and lack long flowing fins.

Suitable Tankmates for Crowntail Betta

In choosing other fish species as tankmates for your Crowntail Betta, please ensure that there is no one in the tank whose size, color, or fins might resemble your Betta, since it may feel threatened by it. Even ideal tank mates are not immune to aggression from your Crown Tail Betta. Any bottom-feeding fish is also suitable because Crowntail Betta spends most of its time at the top level of the water. Give priority to non-aggression and non-competitiveness while selecting the mates for your Betta. Some good companions for Crowntail Betta are:

Neon Tetras

Belonging to the characin family, it is native to the clearwater and blackwater streams of the Amazon basin in South America. It has a silver-white abdomen and a light blue back.

African Dwarf Frog

Native to Equatorial Africa, these aquatic frogs spend most of their time underwater but do come up to breathe because they have lungs instead of gills. If you keep them in your aquarium, make sure you have a small cave in the tank that will help it rise to the water surface.

Cory Catfish

Distributed across South America, they are a type of freshwater fish that belongs to the Callichthyidae family. They come in a variety of shapes and colors.

Feeder Guppies

One of the most commonly known tropical fish, they are bred as food in overcrowded tanks. They belong to the Poeciliidae family.

Ghost Shrimp

Deriving their name from their transparent ghostly appearance, they are known for their excellent camouflage ability. They belong to the Palaemonidae family.

Red Cherry Shrimp

Native to Taiwan and belonging to the Atyidae family, they are an ideal choice for those who prefer non-aggressive beings in their aquarium.

Interesting Facts about Crowntail Betta

• Crowntail Betta comes in 25 unique colors.
• When males feel threatened, they flare their fins.
• The healthier a Betta is, the brighter their color will be. However, this only applies to the males since the females naturally come in monochromic colors.
• They are intelligent creatures capable of learning tricks to perform. You can train your Betta to leap through a loop or push a ball into a goal underwater.
• Females display an egg-shaped spot on their bodies when they are ready to mate.

PLAY WITH YOUR BETTA

Betta fish come to recognize their owners. They will actually learn faces and even simple games. Keep your betta company and say “hi” once in a while, so he learns who you are!

• betta fish are very curious and often develop a strong bond with their caretaker.

Betta fish are enjoyable to watch and spend time with. You can play with your fish by moving your finger back and forth along the tank edge (never bang the tank or poke the water). Watch your betta follow you. And above all, don’t forget to name your fish!

• Never tap the glass of the tank. This action easily agitates the fish and can cause the fish to go into shock and die. To interact through movement, simply slowly rest your finger on the glass and slide it along to see if your betta will follow it. If he/she backs away and seems frightened, then stop immediately. You can eventually try again once you the betta is more accustomed and less afraid of you.

Fun Facts About Betta Fish

A few things that it’s nice to know about betta fish:

• Betta fish are members of the Anabantoid family (gouramis are also in this family). They have a back-up breathing system that allows them to breathe surface air, however, they still require a filtration system in their tanks.

• Female betta fish are typically smaller than male betta fish. They lack the beautiful finnage that males possess. However, they can still be equally as beautiful in their own way—–and feisty! Don’t keep them together though, as the female may latch onto the male’s vivid fins, causing them to tear.

• Male betta fish build bubble nests when happy!

• If a male likes a female, he flares his gills, twists his body, and spreads his fins. If a female likes a male, she wriggles back and fronts.

The Wrap-Up

While there are many reasons why Crowntail Betta is one of the most popular choices for aquarium enthusiasts. They come with beautiful fins, bright colors and are easy to take care of. There is a downside, their aggressive nature, although some people would see it as an attractive quality if that is what you are into. They are extremely territorial and love having their own spaces.

Their living conditions and eating habits don’t require you to put heavy effort into it. So, they are pretty manageable and a must-have for those who love to pet fish. After all, who wouldn’t like to have a fish that has one of the prettiest fins in the aquatic world to be in their tank?

There is no doubt that a community tank can look even more beautiful with a Crowntail betta as its focal point.